Before I get into some questions though, I want to make a few things clear. I have spent a lot of time and money on trying to learn as much as I can to better myself with this style of photography. I love all forms of astrophotography and I really think I have found my niche. I hope to one day soon start making back a bit of that money I have spent. So I am not going to just reveal everything I have worked so hard to learn. What I am going to do is give you some tips and/or give you the same resources that I myself used to help me get started. They are not all free. They are not all a "one stop shop." With some of them they are just the start. You yourself will need to dig deeper to truly understand everything that is said in them if you wish to do shots like mine. No one ever said astrophotography was cheap or easy.
- Canon 5D Mk II
- Canon 60D
- Canon 1000D
- 10-24mm, 14mm, 18-55mm, 18-270mm, 20mm, 50mm, 75-300mm, 90mm Camera Lenses
- 10" F/4 Newtonian Telescope
- 8" F/6 Dobsonian Telescope
- 80mm ShortTube Guidescope
- Synguider Autoguider
- NEQ6 Pro Goto Telescope Mount
- EQ5 Telescope Mount
- Coronado PST (Personal Solar Telescope)
- Modified webcam for astrophotography
- Variety of telescope eyepeices, adapters and accessories
- Home made barndoor tracker.
- Three camera tripods.
Like I said- a LOT of money

Get yourself a tripod. Learn to use your camera in fully manual mode. Use live view if you have it to manually focus on the moon. Use the longest focal length you have. Use settings of ISO 400, F/5.6 and 1/125th of a sec (crescent) 1/500th sec (quarter) 1/1000th sec (gibbous) or 1/2000th sec (full moon) as a starting point. Take a test shot and adjust the shutter speed to get the right exposure. Delay the shutter or use a remote to eliminate vibration.

The best online tutorial I have seen will tell you everything you need to know and more [link]
You can also use this [link] program to stack your images.

I own one of these [link] which is a perfectly safe way to view the sun and with the aid of a couple of adapters also allows me to photograph it.

This is a big question and one of the ones I get the most. You need to ask yourself what do you want to image the most (planets, other galaxies, nebulae, etc.). Each answer has it's own list of equipment that is better than others. It's not that you can not image everything with the one setup but some are more suitable than others.
It's not all about the telescope. The mount is the most important aspect of astrophotography. Bad mount + great telescope = bad photos. Great mount + any telescope (or even just a camera and lens)= great photos. This is my deep space astrophotography setup.....

The mount cost nearly three times as much as the telescope. Expect to pay about $1,500 Australian Dollars to get the minimum good mount for deep sky imaging.
I can highly recommend purchasing this [link]
I can highly recommend joining a local astronomy club to try before you buy and learn from people already doing it.
I can highly recommend joining online astronomy forums like "Cloudy Nights" or "Ice In Space" and asking lots of questions.
I can highly recommend subscribing to astronomy magazines

First off, I hate the question "What settings did you use?" Even more so if you don't even fav the photo or follow my work. A sure fire way to get a non response from me if you just write that. It does not matter what settings I use unless you have exactly the same equipment I have and are standing next to me in the same conditions. If you dialed in the same settings that I have used I can almost guarantee that 99 times out of 100 that you will get an image that looks nothing like mine or you wouldn't even be able to use the settings because your equipment does not allow it.
To work out what you can do with your equipment check out my tutorial here......
Once you fully understand the 600 Rule all your other camera settings will flow off that for fixed tripod astrophotography. If you don't like what the 600 Rule says for your equipment- buy better equipment. That's what I did.
I can highly recommend you buy this eBook [link]
And/or this eBook as well [link]
Get outside at night and practice, practice, practice. Learn the night sky. Not all the night sky is as photogenic as some areas. Get as far away from light pollution as you can.
Image processing is vital to astrophotography. It is not a hobby to take up if you have an aversion to using things like photoshop and other image editing programs. For deep sky images you can easily spend as much time processing the images and digging all the faint detail out of the data, as you did outside taking the shots. Watch this YouTube vid [link] to see a very good tutorial on basic deep space astrophotography image processing . A lot of the techniques used can also be applied to landscape astrophotography.
I am constantly learning and refining how I process my images and I will only stop learning the day I die. One thing I have seen come up a lot lately is the word Photoshop. As in comments like "Fake. I believe that this image has been photoshopped"
Photoshop seems to have become a bit of a dirty word in terms of photography for some people. It has become a term for compositing or faking images.
Do I use Photoshop to paste a stolen or computer generated star filled sky image over my own landscape shot? NO, I do not.
Do I use Photoshop (or Lightroom, or Camera Raw, or Digital Photo Professional, or PTGui Pro, or one of the multitude of other image editing programs available) to edit my images. Of course I do. And unless you are using a film camera, you edit images too. Even if you are just taking a jpeg digital image straight from the camera to your computer, the data has most likely already been edited by your camera and does not represent exactly what you saw with your own eyes.
If I use an image editing program to crop, straighten, White Balance correct, saturate/desaturate, sharpen, apply/remove vignette, adjust exposure or contrast, etc. is that "Photoshop"? In my opinion, no. They are standard actions which have been applied by photographers ever since the first picture was developed in a darkroom. Image editing programs like Photoshop are, for me, just a digital darkroom in which I develop my images.
Everything you see in my images is captured by me and my camera and more often than not, in a single exposure. The only exceptions to this are generally my startrail images (where I stack multiple images to show the stars motion across the sky), my solar images (where I do one exposure for the surface of the sun and one exposure for the fainter prominences around the solar limb), my panorama images (where I stitch multiple single images together to capture a larger field of view), and my deep sky images (where I do a number of exposures to improve the signal to noise ratio). When ever I do do multiple images I always declare so in the image description. If I have not mentioned multiple exposures then the shot was all done in a single image.
Steven Christenson has a great online article in which he talks about his thoughts on image processing and composite images and it echoes my thoughts exactly. Check it out here... [link]
Well I hope this has helped set you on your way to doing astrophotography like I do. From now on if anyone asks me how I did a shot I will simply be directing them to this journal (if I have not already described how I did it in the description). I will NOT be expanding on anything I have talked about here unless I feel the need. You now have the resources I used to get going in this. What you do with them and how far you want to go with it is up to you.
Cheers
Greg


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I love this journal because it deepens my appreciation of what goes into the photos not because i want to do them just because i want to an educated veiwer/lover of your work, keep it up...
i already have this in my journal fav's already,
but just not found the time to read it as yet, thanks for the link....
maybe i should move it to things to do soon.....lol
Even everything I scan gets color corrected, because the scan is rarely the same color I see in person, so I have to tweak it until it looks as close to the real image as possible.
Being afraid to pull it into an editing program is nothing more than a hindrance. Very VERY rarely do I get an image that doesn't have to be edited at least slightly.